Jump (for my love) – Named Ailakki

I thought this 80ies classic is a good description for what this post is about. A jumpsuit made for the celebration of love (yes… I went to a wedding again 🙂 )

When I am invited to a wedding I try to match my outfit to the colour scheme. As the invitation shows, it was purple this time:


This very light and soft satin-like fabric was already in my stash. And the right pattern was chosen quickly. Previously I made several skirt and top combos and dresses for those occasions. It was time for a Jumpsuit. The Ailakki Jumpsuit from Named Patterns.

The delicate fabric was a bit hard to work with, but somehow it worked out. I used it for the lining too. Besides conquering the fabric, the fitting also was a challenge. I rarely make muslins  because I don’t spend much money on the fabric anyway and I see it as a part of the process to make it work in the end. I suppose the pattern is designed for a larger bust than mine (although it makes wearing a bra near to impossible). I had to take it in at the side seams of the bodice quite a lot. Some centimetres at the shoulder seams had to leave too. It feels like I spent some hours in front of the mirror pinning the bodice to my body to make it fit and to cover the bra properly. I don’t own a bra that sticks to your skin without any straps. A regular halterless bra wouldn’t work with the deep v-back. And sewing cups between the two layers of fabric wasn’t my weapon of choice, since the fabric is so thin and shiny, I was afraid it would definitely be visible. A have a bra with variable straps. I removed the shlouder straps and installed the one long strap that is hooked to the back closure and goes around your belly and back again. The closure sits beneath the back opening and the strap is covered by the waistband. I bought a matching invisible zipper but somehow it didn’t work out. So I went for a big visible one. I like the rough touch it adds to this rather fine garment.

I was not able (or willing) to take pictures of the jumpsuit outside in the daylight in Germany in April. But we were shooting in wonderful Adalusia in Spain where it was sufferable to wear outside. Our lovely make up artist loves her job and voluntarily did my hair, make up and the pictures during a shooting break.

ailakki07

ailakki04

ailakki06

ailakki01

ailakki02ailakki03

The wedding I made it for was on April 30th and the weather in Germany didn’t get as sunny and warm. So I made a matching jacket (There will be an separate post n this)

ailakki09

ailakki11

And finally I caught the wedding bouquet (the tradition says that I am the next to get married… stay tuned 😉 )

ailakki10

Over the summer I sewed some nice pieces but most of them aren’t photographed yet… but this will surely happen before I marry!!!

I’m still on the hunt for another jumpsuit pattern. Any suggestions?

Thank you very much for bearing with me! I hope to get back to a more frequent blogging rhythm 🙂

Advertisements

I like big pockets and I can not lie…

The original lyrics say ‘big butts’… but big pockets are way more achievable for me 😉

I wanted to make a top or a dress with big pockets after I found some inspiration online. One was the lovely embroidered tee by Katy of katyandlaney.com.

embroideredtee

Another one was a picture of the Free People Zoe Sweater Dress I found on Pinterest

zoe dress

I accompanied a friend to the fabric market at Maybachufer here in Berlin. I didn’t need something special. I went home with some neon yellow lace (it was only 2€/m and perfect to try the Sierra bra pattern), soft and fluffy fleece with sweet little animals (to make a gift for a little baby boy) and a remnant of a black and red patterned synthetic fabric (obviously the leftover from the fabric Wiebke of Kreuzberger Nähte bought to make her Lady Skater dress)

Katy drafted the pattern for her embroidered tee herself. But since I am a lazy sewer I was looking for a pattern to start with. I had something lose or boxy in mind. In my archive of Burda magazines I found this vintage blouse pattern (No. 109 from 12/2011) I was curious how the sleeves may turn out, since they have a rather unconventional construction. I traced the smallest size (36, a bit bigger than I usually need… but I wanted it a bit lose anyway) and added only a little seam allowance. My fabric was less than 1m long but I managed to put all pattern pieces on it and had a little rest for the pockets.

BigPocketSweater_WIP

Now I had to decide how the pocket should be shaped. I considered pockets with round (like Katys) or angled corners and made paper pieces to try it out.

BigPocketSweater_PocketShape

After I decided for the angled ones, I experimented with the size.

BigPocketSweater_PocketSize

I didn’t use the pattern pieces for the collar and the waistband. I just used a folded stripe of fabric the length of the circumference of the neckline to finish it and hemmed the lower edge of the top. Finally I made and attached the pockets. I sewed them in place at the upper edge and secured them by hand in some spots.

I was very lucky to pack my brandnew top for my work trip to Andalusia. The weather was nice and sunny but there was also a very strong breeze.

BigPocketSweater05BigPocketSweater04BigPocketSweater03BigPocketSweater02BigPocketSweater01

I wore it on day 4 of Me Made May and here is what I wore the other days:

MMM2016_01
MMM2016_02
MMM2016_03 MMM2016_04
How is your Me Made May going?

Long way to Castelbajac

I finished an UFO (unfinished object)! (And to write about it, took me almost as long as the sewing process) It all began with a coat from J.C. de Castelbajac. I pinned it to my Style pinboard at Pinterest because I liked the collar. Buying that coat was not an option. I don’t spend that much money on clothes for myself. But I thought about adding this style of collar to a selfmade garment. And then Burda read my mind.

I always check out the patterns Burda offers with every new issue and I browse the member projects of burdastyle.com, burdastyle.de and burdastyle.ru (sometimes even the Polish website)  – Let’s praise Google Translate at this point 🙂 And there it was. A dress pattern from Castelbajac with the collar and the giant pockets of the beloved coat. But there was a realization too: Burda doesn’t sell it’s designer patterns as a download. So I had to order the printed magazine from december 2014 and trace the pattern pieces from the pattern sheet (did I mention that this is the part of sewing I dislike the most?… followed by ironing…) The pattern was marked as ‘masterpiece’ but I thought with the power of the internet I will manage to sew this dress. The internet told me, that the most complicated part are the pockets. I read everything I could find about it at this point (most of it in french) Burda instructions aren’t very helpful (even in your native language). Everything was cut out and the pockets were assembled.

I made pictures of every step (and thought: There is a fine line between genius and insanity… who thinks of a construction like this?)

pocket_castelbajac01pocket_castelbajac02pocket_castelbajac03

Now it was time to put the pockets and the rest of the dress together. The instructions were confusing and so I tried to do it my way (the ‘try and error’ way…) and ended up with the two pockets sitting at different hights… in 2cm different hights… while ripping it up again, I realised I chose a bad fabric for this one. It called for something like wool. But I wanted to have this dress in a very soft (and very stretching yet not very stable) printed sweat something (stash busting…a resolution that’s not always the best idea)… I had to be very careful because you saw every stitch I made before and the fabric ripped very easily.
And then I moved and forgot about the dress for a while (because I didn’t want to wear a lined sweat dress in summer anyway)
When my sewing stuff found it’s place in the new sewing room I took courage again and wanted to finish this dress. I managed to set the pockets in at the same hight (but still not in the way the instructions told. Because 1. I just understood them, when I found this helpful picture from Marie-Noellep2250155 and 2. that wouldn’t have worked with my fabric anyway)

When I was about to assemble the lining I realized that I made a mistake when cutting out the front and back pieces…the instructions said ‘cut the same pieces as for the main fabric’… and so I cut the same…with the openings for the giant pockets…which the lining is supposed to cover from the inside…

During the process I found out that my main fabric is quite transparent and so I chose another, lighter fabric for the linig (not the green splattered one I already used for the pocket bags) The rest went relatively smooth ( well, there were already enough disasters for one dress)

I like my very own Castelbajac dress and other people seem to like it to (they even tell me so 🙂 )

castelbajac01

castelbajac03

castelbajac04

castelbajac02

In the end the lucky cat was with me 🙂

Do you have UFOs like that? Isn’t Me-Made-May a good occaison to finish them (or to write about them… I still have some UBOs – unblogged objects)

Back with ruffles

Hello again. This whole ‘hey it’s MeMadeMay let’s get back to blogging regularly’ thing didn’t work for long. I’m so sorry! Although I wore some unblogged makes during May I did not find the time to write about it. One reason may be the 4 weddings I attended in the meantime. But that will be another post (that will hopefully not take another two months) There’s a summary of the second part of my MMM outfits at the end of this post.
MeMadeMay is always a good way to get to know your personal style and likings. This May I noticed that I sewed a lot of ruffles in the last time. They are playful and feminin.
It started with a dress I made last October. I showed a friend how to sew a shirt and fell for the fabric she chose. I could keep the remnants and made another version of the dress from Burda easy autmn/winter2012. But this time I omitted the skirt part and replaced it with a ruffle. Our trip to Istanbul was a good opportunity to shoot some pics.
black ruffle dress
black ruffle dress back
We bought the fabric from a turkish dealer at the fabric market at Maybachufer in Berlin. I have no idea what it is. Something synthetic I guess. What I like most about it is, that it has two different sides. I played with both on the dress. It is very soft and keeps you warm without beeing very thick. Since the first wash I leave a trace of black fuzz everywhere I go. But I still love the dress I will not stop wearing it because of that. My friends shirt didn’t misbehave after the wash. Mystery fabric.
black ruffle dress detail

Of course I went to the fabric district when I was in Istanbul. But most of what I found there were notions and festive, glittery fabrics. So my only souvenir was a picture of me with the statue of a fabric merchant.
istanbul fabric

In December I made another version of this dress. The starting point was this dress I saw on Pinterest:

Image from seamsforadesire.com

I had two pairs of grey mens jogging pants that were a leftover from a shooting. The sweat fabric would make a nice warm winter dress. The pants had a slightly different shade of grey. So I had to pay attention to that when placing the pattern pieces.

My dress is not as wide as my inspiration. Mostly because I couldn’t get more width out of the pants. And since my sweat fabric ist not that drapey I was fine with the ‘more fitted’ style. For finish I just added some ribbing from the cuffs of the pants to the neckline and a white jersey ruffle to the hem.

During our trip to Venice in April it was the perfect sightseeing dress. Warm enough to not have to carry a jacket.

joggingdress01
joggingdress02
joggingdress03

Besides sewing, one of my hobbies is digging through my fabric stash 🙂 I always end up sitting in a pile of fabrics dreaming of what they might become in the future. For the remnant of this dress the future was near. I just grabbed the pattern of my selfdrafted hi-low shirt, made the curving a bit less extreme and added black cuffs and of course a ruffle at the hem. And in about one hour I had my new favourite shirt.

ruffleshirt01
ruffleshirt02
ruffleshirt03

Enough ruffles for today 🙂 Let’s have a look when I wore these one in MeMadeMay (There were some ruffle free days too 😉 )
MMM15_09MMM15_10
MMM15_11MMM15_12
MMM15_13MMM15_14
MMM15_15MMM15_16
MMM15_17MMM15_18
MMM15_19MMM15_20
MMM15_21MMM15_22
MMM15_23MMM15_24
MMM15_25MMM15_26
MMM15_27MMM15_28
MMM15_29MMM15_30
MMM15_31

Hope to be back soon 🙂 Thanks for reading!

Cool Blue

Hello again 🙂 I still try to work my way through the unposted garments from last year (while the pile of unposted garments from this year grows…)

Finally I managed to claim my blog at Bloglovin. So if you like Follow my blog with Bloglovin

This dress is a make from last summer. It was very hot. I covered all my windows and didn’t leave the house on this day. Good preconditions for stash busting 🙂 I had some thin jersey in a vibrant blue left from the dress I made for my mother. It almost screamed ‘perfect summer swing dress‘ at me. And isn’t there a better colour to rescue you from summer heat than a cool blue?

blue dress
I prepared the pattern following the tutorial. Since I didn’t have very much fabric I decided to add a pleat and a panel of a contrasting fabric to the back. The pleat was repeated in the sleeves (you might know them from here or here or here or here). It was a quick make that helped me to survive some hot summer days. Only the day we took the photos, the sun wasn’t shining that much anymore. But I’m sure  you believe me that this is a nice dress for sunny days.

blue dress back

blue dress detail

blue dress

You might recognize the patterned fabric from my white dress. Till now, I only used it to accentuate simple one coloured dresses. I purchased a bit more than 2m of it. So why not make something that showcases this amazing print a bit more.

I found this easy pattern for leggings called ‘Roxie’ in the latest autumn issue of La Maison Victor. I know you could easily draft leggings with your own measurements, but I was too lazy. I traced the pattern in size 34 (XS) and just had to reduce length and width at the lower leg. I love these leggings. I wear them to my yoga classes and of course together with the white and the blue dress!

Roxie leggins

Roxie leggings

Roxie leggings

Sewing really helped my to discover and build my own style. Surely it might be satisfying to finish a garment with a lot of details, couture techniques and/or delicate fabrics. But for me, what counts the most is what I actually like to wear. And most of the pieces I wear regularly are simple and comfy ones. Nevertheless at the moment I’m working on a designer pattern with some tricky details. If it turns into the garment I imagine it to be I will score in the skills and in the style department 🙂

What do you find the most satisfying in sewing? Challenging yourself and your skills or to make the garment you want to have and you probably couldn’t find as RTW (as simple as it may be)?

Christmas outfit – just in time

The “just in time” refers to finishing the outfit not the blog post. Although there are still some other finished things waiting to be blogged about I thought I better show you my Christmas outfit first before it might get mistaken for an Easter outfit. But now let me wish you a happy new year before it gets to late for that too 😉

christmas outfit 2014
All patterns I used are from very nice magazines. I already showed you some makes from the german magazine “CUT” (some pants and a blazer. You haven’t seen a t-shirt and a coat yet) For my Christmas outfit I wanted to make another version of the blazer and some shorts. In November Stoff & Stil opened a big shop near my flat and my office (dangerous!) I spotted a lovely teal/white/dark blue plaid flannel and decided to base my outfit on it. The shorts should be made of this flannel only. Since I made the blazer before, I knew that it has some features I could accentuate with it. The top is based on a pattern from the magazine La Maison Victor. Meanwhile there are 6 issues in dutch and french. But only one in german. I chose the top ‘Fauve’ from this Autumn 2014 issue. They used a contrasting fabric for the facing because the pleats on the neckline let you actually see it. Just the right place for my flannel 🙂 Although all the places I planned to go on Christmas are well heated and I would have the blazer on top, I didn’t want to go sleeveless. So here is how I planned my outfit to look like:
xmas outfit sketch xmas outfit sketch
I knew where I would get the flannel from. I just had to buy a dark blue zipper for the shorts. I only had a brown on in the right length. In the end I realized that I could have used this one too. You dont see the zipper from the outside. So the blue zipper was kind of a gift to myself 🙂  The fabric for the top and the blazer had to be chosen to match the flannel. I didn’t have anything in dark blue in my stash anymore (I squeezed 3 longsleeved tops out of my 2m dark blue jersey. There couldn’t be anymore left for this project) But I found some poly-something mystery fabric in my stash. It’s not the exact shade of teal but it matches well. I even had a scrap of teal ponte knit. Just enough for the shoulder panel of the lining. So I could have something soft against my neck. I went to the fabric market to get some dark blue fabric for the top. And I managed to buy just the dark blue jersey (okay…and some black jersey that one should always have in stock).

I started with the shorts. The pattern is from CUT magazine no. 11. Every pattern in the magazine has detailed instructions with a lot of pictures. First I was a bit confused because they let you fold your fabric left sides together before you place your pattern pieces on it. I was used to do it with right sides together. I thought there must be a reason for doing so. But in fact there wasn’t. I even had to do every following step the other way around to make it work. That is way my zipper is on the other side. But I don’t mind. I’m even a bit proud of myself because I managed to turn every step around in my head. I have severe problems with left and right in daily life! (I was told that every woman has it, but hopfully not as bad as I do).

pattern pieces shorts
After cutting I serged the raw edges of the pieces. One moment I thought that might have been one step to much, since I originally planned to sew the whole thing with the serger… but then decided that it is more comfortable to sew it with my regular machine.

shorts serged pattern pieces
I finished the shorts with one of my selfmade letter buttons (as seen on this blouse) This time I sewed it on with an X because it looks a bit like a snowflake (although we didn’t have any snow for christmas this year)

selfmade button

Next on the sewing table was the blazer. It’s the ‘Blazer Frazer’ vom CUT magazine no. 8. Because I did this blazer before (see here) I didn’t have to trace and adjust the pattern. I went straight to the cutting.

blazer pattern piecesThe only thing I changed was to not add the button and the buttonhole because I didn’t use the closure on my first blazer and the design works fine without it too. I like how the fluffy flannel and ponte knit goes together with the more sleek outer fabric.

blazer fabrics detail

Last but not least, the top. I wanted the top to be long sleeved or at least 3/4. One option was to draft or find a sleeve that fits into the existing armhole. Since this armhole was not designed for a sleeve and I have very very limited pattern drafting skills I went the quick and dirty way. I took my selfdrafted hi-low shirt and taped it’s dolman style sleeve to the pattern pieces. And that’s it. Worked out very good. I used the flannel for the facing and top stitched the pleats with teal thread.

top detail pleats
Finally some shots from the completed outfit. My colleague shot them at work. I didn’t have a christmas tree at home this year.

top fauvre la maison victortop fauve la maison victorchristmas outfit from CUT magazine and la maison victorblazer frazer from CUT magazine
I think the last pic was intended to be kind of a christmas tree pin up…but I’m more a clown than a pin up girl 🙂

christmas outfit
I really enjoyed making and wearing my Christmas outfit. How did yours turn out?
Now it seems like this is not the end but the start of festive sewing for me…there are two weddings to come this year. That means I need two more wedding guest outfits (and one wedding dress… not for me! For a good friend… exciting adventure!)

It’s a Wrap

No big surprise, just the very popular Burda Wrap Blouse. At the moment it has 752 downloads on the international Burda website. Like almost everybody I fell for it the moment I saw it in the preview for the April issue of Burda magazine. I had many fabric combinations in mind but in the end I decided to start with a remnant of rayon from my caramel dress. It was a quite small piece of fabric, not even enough to do both front parts. I used some black chiffon for the lower layer. It is sheer but it doesn’t show much. But anyway there was just enough fabric for the smallest size without seam allowance. I thought this is no big deal since I almost always use the smallest size without seam allowance and it is described as boxy (that equals roomy in my world…).  Well, but I almost always use knit fabrics with stretch. And the construction of the front is not made for just dropping seam allowance. The edge of the front panels is supposed to sit right beside the shoulder seam. But my shoulder seam moved  a bit inwards and I had to be careful not to catch the edge when setting in the sleeves. Another issue was the corner of the front parts. I saw many people just overlapping the fabric and stitching it in place. My mission was to do this one thing properly. I read the instructions from Burda on how to do this ‘envelope corner’. Please don’t think that Burda instructions are clearer in German. At some point (after consulting Google and looking at some pictures) I thought I unterstood how to do it. Then I realised that this corner is no right angle… just ignoring the knot in my brain I went for it  and it worked somehow. I’m quite pleased with the result (Although it brought me some Star Trek comments on Facebook  and in real life) And as if there weren’t enough problems with this ‘supposed to be easy’ garment, it shrank when I washed it (the pictures were taken before). At the moment I’m considering wether I will rescue it somehow (because I think it might be a nice companion for the laced up pants) or to give it to some little girl (in this case I maybe have to hurry before the girls I know won’t even fit into this anymore)

Wrap blouse Burda 2014

Wrap blouse Burda 2014But I wasn’t scarred enough not to try this pattern a second time. My mother liked it too when she saw it in the magazine. I bought 1m of some satin-like rayon in grey because I liked it’s pattern. I had to make some adjustments. My mother wanted it to be longer. I also added the seam allowance and some ease. I did the backpiece on the fold for the first one. This time I went with the center back seam because I could fit the pattern pieces on the fabric better this way.  Although I was totally prepared to use some other fabric for the sleeves I could squeeze it all out of my 1m of fabric. I had a hard time setting the sleeves in …Seems like I had went a bit to far with my alterations… In the end I hemmed everything by hand. No needle, thread or tension adjustment worked to get a smooth result with this fabric. Sometimes I like to do some sewing by hand because it gives me the freedom of doing it whereever I want. The only difficulty was to space my stitches evenly. But only until I discovered a simple trick on Pinterest. Just mark the desired spacing on your thumb  with a pen and by holding the fabric you can see exactly where your next stitch has to be.

Wrap blouse Burda 2014Wrap blouse Burda 2014I don’t know whether I will have a third try on this… but on the other hand I really would like to have a wearable version for myself 🙂